PETALING JAYA, March 25 — This might be the best Chicken Katsu Sando we have tasted in town.
The delicate texture of the brioche, oh-so-light yet richer than traditional shokupan (Japanese milk bread). The careful coating of panko breadcrumbs, the crunchy cabbage slaw, a pleasing choice of fries or salad, even the homemade nanban sauce that balances everything.
Simple ingredients but a top-notch execution of this classic Japanese fried breaded chicken sandwich.
Where does one find this outstanding specimen? Rather than a yoshoku restaurant (serving Western-style Japanese food), track down RAYs, a hidden café in the unassuming neighbourhood of Section 51A, PJ.
RAYs is the brainchild of Kenneth Lee, 31, an F&B veteran with over 12 years of experience in specialty coffee.
Founder Kenneth Lee (centre) with his partners Samantha Yeo (left) and Jolene Goh (right). — Picture courtesy of RAYs
A Brewers Cup Malaysia competitor (placed in the Top 6 for four consecutive years) and coffee roaster, he is joined by partners Samantha Yeo and Jolene Goh.
The trio’s natural good humour also seems to come across in how cheerful, sunny orange hues inform the café’s décor, both inside and outside.
This ebullient palette is entirely intentional, according to Kenneth: “It represents warmth, good vibes and the idea of bringing a little brightness into someone’s day. The name RAYs isn’t a person’s name, but came from the idea of rays of sun.”
There is a playful sense of wit and whimsy: the sandwich board sign at the entrance announces “Coffee helps you poop better” (which is not untrue and probably an unsung benefit of caffeine).
Kenneth laughs: “That was our main intention, to make people smile, and to create a space where they could feel at ease and comfortable. The vibe at RAYs is pretty modest and simple.”
That unpretentious approach extends to their minimalist furnishings, as well as their location in Section 51A, PJ which is far from the trendier and more teeming neighbourhoods that more Insta-friendly cafés typically prefer.
Cheerful, sunny orange hues inform the décor. — Picture by CK Lim
“Honestly, we don’t have the best interior or exterior,” Kenneth says, “but we really try our best to provide comfort and a sense of home to everyone.
“I personally love spaces that feel slightly out of the city… it’s slower, a little tucked away, and that’s exactly the kind of pace we wanted.”
Laidback would be how I would describe the café, even with the ubiquitous whirr of the coffee grinder and hiss of the steam wand.
One of the baristas, Aary, tamps the coffee grounds before pulling a shot of espresso and foaming the milk.
The resultant coffee is smooth and well balanced, with just enough of a kick. I had ordered it as a flat white but as Kenneth puts it, “Even for drinks, we keep it simple — just White or Black. No fancy names like flat white or cappuccino… Honestly, once the foam settles, it’s all gonna taste the same anyways.”
Barista Aary tamping coffee grounds before pulling a shot of espresso. — Picture by CK Lim
Which draws a chuckle from me. Specialty coffee aficionados can relate — too often our love of esoteric jargon and pursuit of increasingly excellent cuppas can really seem like overkill to others.
Sometimes you just need coffee.
It helps, of course, when the coffee is good or even great. I chat with Jolene at the counter as she brews filter coffee with beans from One Half Coffee Roastery.
She tells me how they try their best to focus on the basics rather than elaborate presentations for the sake of driving social media likes.
Kenneth concurs, noting this philosophy applies to their food menu too. He says, “We just keep things simple and genuine. We focus on comfort and staple food, no specific cuisine, just dishes that feel familiar and satisfying.”
This is partly spurred by their space limitations — “our kitchen is really small, only around 150 square feet including storage and a chiller” — as well as a desire to reduce food wastage.
Flat white. — Picture by CK Lim
Besides the aforementioned Chicken Katsu Sando, expect standards such as noodles, bread and rice dishes at RAYs such as their bestselling Pulled Beef Toastie, homemade Scallion Oil Noodles, Chilli Oil Gnocchi and Ikura Salmon Mentaiko Don.
Kenneth shares, “We had to be smart with our menu… maximise each item and build different dishes around them to keep operations efficient while still offering variety.”
Most of the ingredients are homemade, such as the scallion oil and chilli oil, whilst others are sourced from artisanal bakeries; the bread, for instance, comes from Dou Dou Bake.
Dou Dou’s brioche loaf is particularly well employed in RAYs’ French Toast. (It got a big thumb’s up from the resident French Toast snob in our party of two, which is high praise indeed.)
Kenneth shares, “Our French Toast has a crispy outer layer from the egg wash, while staying fluffy inside. It soaks up our light vanilla ice cream nicely. Served with our homemade blueberry compote and candied walnuts, they introduce a nice crunch and balance of sweetness.”
Brewing filter coffee with beans from One Half Coffee Roastery. — Picture by CK Lim
Truth be told, it might be worth it to visit RAYs for the Chicken Katsu Sando and French Toast alone.
“These two are really crowd favourites,” Kenneth agrees. “We don’t try to overcomplicate them, just small, thoughtful touches to keep them comforting but with a bit of a twist. It’s about how everything comes together on the plate, not just the individual ingredients.”
That attentive nature came in handy when Kenneth and his partners were setting up RAYs, which first opened in November 2023.
Kenneth recalls, “Renovation and wet works were definitely the biggest headache during the early stages. It’s always something that requires a lot of planning and patience. And especially with such a small space, the operation workflow and placements had to be super efficient. Every inch mattered.”
Another challenge was brand identity. Kenneth explains, “As a new brand, we knew it definitely takes time to build trust, so we didn’t want to push our marketing too fast. We focused more on consistency. It’s really a process of showing up every day and improving bit by bit.”
The French Toast comes with homemade blueberry compote and candied walnuts. — Picture by CK Lim
Today RAYs has a decent following of regulars that grew organically over time.
Kenneth notes: “As we might not have all the trendy café aesthetics, we focus heavily on customer experience and the quality of food and coffee. And only by building bonds and trust with customers, can we continue to grow meaningfully.”
There is a sense of community at RAYs. Every customer that enters the shop is greeted warmly and I have seen many of them ease into easy conversation with the baristas, as though continuing an earlier conversation.
“My team and I talk to almost every single customer every day, without fail,” Kenneth says. “That’s how we really understand our audience better, their expectations, their preferences, what works, what doesn’t.”
He adds, “Over time, we’ve been lucky to have many regulars who say RAYs feel like a second home to them. That really means a lot to us.”
The team behind RAYs. — Picture courtesy of RAYs
Indeed, the team behind RAYs — both front-of-house and back-of-house, from baristas to the kitchen crew — might be the true MVP (Most Valuable Player).
Kenneth says, “This isn’t a one-man show. I’m really proud of my team. They’ve been with me since the beginning, and I’ve seen them grow so much.”
Given that staff attrition is all too common in the F&B industry, Kenneth places a lot of emphasis on employee welfare.
He explains, “I believe if they’re well-rested and in the right mindset, that positive energy naturally flows into the food, drinks and service. That’s what makes RAYs what it is.”
RAYs
Lot 8. 2, B.LAND. Jalan 51A/225, Section 51A, PJ
Open daily 8:30am-5pm
Phone: 012-879 6878
IG: https://www.instagram.com/raysgotchu/
FB: https://www.facebook.com/p/RAYs-BLAND-61553756931672/
* This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.
* Follow us on Instagram @eatdrinkmm for more food gems.
