JOHOR BARU, May 20 – Many popular restaurants have extended their reach by opening new branches, often within the same city, sometimes across borders in other states.
The true test of this business strategy, then, must be whether the same quality can be maintained when a child outlet is over 300 kilometres away from the original shop.
Which is to say, when I spotted one of Hai Kah Lang’s newest restaurants when I was in Taman Sentosa, Johor Baru, I knew I had to drop by and try the food here.
(The aforementioned original shop, Hai Kah Lang Seafood Noodle and Fish Head Noodle, is located in Taman Cheras – also known as Yulek – in KL, closer to home.)
Hai Kah Lang JB Sentosa is quite spacious and we were soon seated. There was a mix of families at larger tables and a number of solo diners too, tucking into their bowls of seafood noodles.
Lala in Tomato Soup. — Picture by CK Lim
It can be quite a challenge deciding what to have, given the plethora of options.
I went with the Leopard Coral Grouper after checking with our friendly server. She suggested the Leopard Coral Grouper Belly for a fattier mouthfeel but my pick would make for a lighter-tasting meal.
Other signature dishes include the Fish Head Milk Soup Noodles and the Mixed Seafood Noodles; the latter available as congee too.
Selecting the appropriate type of noodles can be tough for the indecisive: mee, koay teow, lou shi fun, mi xian, wantan mee, mihun and thick mihun.
Fried Soft Shell Crab. — Picture by CK Lim
I opted for mi xian to go with this, after checking once more with our server for her recommendation. These rice noodles, she reckoned, would go the best with my choice of fish.
Those who are eschewing starchy carbohydrates in their diet might be elated to learn that they can enjoy practically all the seafood noodle soups on the menu sans noodles.
Perhaps the one dish that benefits the most from a noodle-less approach is their Lala in Tomato Soup.
You can have these Venus clams with other soups, of course, but there is something about the reddish-orange broth that is simultaneously healthful and appetising.
A match made on land and in the sea: the tangy sweetness of the tomatoes and the briny sweetness of the clams, given a much needed lift by the fresh cilantro leaves.
Fried Fish Cake. — Picture by CK Lim
This might sound odd but the real surprise of the menu isn’t the various fresh seafood and fish noodle soups (which are excellent) but the expansive list of side dishes and snacks.
Whilst mostly an afterthought in other restaurants, this section of the menu receives just as much care as the headliners.
From oysters and baby octopus, fried Chinese pomfret to fried shrimp dumplings, there is something for everyone, especially if there are little ones at your table.
Fried Beancurd. — Picture by CK Lim
Each of us must have embraced their own inner child for we greedily zoomed in on all the fried goodies. (You can’t blame us for being a little naughty with the fried foods when we had been so nice and had clean-tasting soups.)
The showstopper here might be the Fried Soft Shell Crab, crunchy on the outside and still moist on the inside. The accompanying blueberry-inspired cream dip was a lovely touch but the fried morsels were good enough on their own.
Even basic treats such as the Fried Fish Cake and Fried Beancurd were stunning in their well made, well cooked simplicity.
Fried Prawn Paste Fish Slice. — Picture by CK Lim
Something you’d not likely find elsewhere is their Fried Prawn Paste Fish Slices where the fresh fish slices are smeared with prawn paste before being battered and deep fried. Each nugget was an umami bomb – good luck snaring the last piece!
For refreshments, the simple yet effective Icy Coconut Kopi will quench any thirst whilst giving you a caffeine kick. Lovers of ABC will likely appreciate Hai Kah Lang’s take on Cendol.
But ultimately the main reason you’d be dropping by will be for the fresh seafood, best enjoyed with your favourite noodles and in a naturally sweet clear soup.
In my opinion, Hai Kah Lang JB Sentosa is certainly as good as the main shop, which is a rare feat indeed.
Icy Coconut Kopi (left). Cendol (right). — Pictures by CK Lim
Hai Kah Lang JB Sentosa173, Jalan Sutera, Taman Sentosa, Johor BaruOpen daily 8am-9:30pmPhone: 011-1651 9813
* This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.* Follow us on Instagram @eatdrinkmm for more food gems.
